April 12, 2008.

Two days ago we decided to start moving north along the west side of Eleuthera. We were up and underway at 0900 for a 21 mile trip to Governors Harbor.

The first 2 miles we were running dead down wind then for the next 5 miles we were on a broad reach. The wind was pretty much out of the north but we had to clear a large peninsula before we could head north. We had 15 knots of wind with gusts around 20 knots. The wind was directly on our nose but in standing with the new policy on the Veranda we were gonna sail it, period.

Since it was such a short day, we figured what the heck. So we worked our way to windward in a series of tacks. It was an excellent day of sailing although it was a little overcast and actually kind of chilly (low seventies, we’re spoiled, I know). We ended up covering 27 miles to complete our 21 mile day.

We were able to sail just past the harbor entrance so we could tack and run a beam reach right into the anchorage. Once again we started the engine to scout for an appropriate place to drop the hook. It’s good that we did because just as we entered the harbor the mailboat was pulling away from the dock. The Hearts Desire’s and we are the only boats anchored here although we did spot our friends on Long White Cloud anchored in the next bay over.

Yesterday was Friday and we spent most of the day walking around and getting the lay of the land. We found the laundromat, compared prices in the settlements 3 liquor stores and did a little grocery shopping. We also found out that the people here still hold a Fish Fry every Friday evening.

Gary on Packet Inn had told us about the evening that they spent at the Fish Fry 2 years ago. They said if there was still a Fish Fry then we gotta go, so we’re going.

At about 1900 hours we heard the telltale sign of any Bahamanian get together, loud freakin’ music. We could also see a good number of cars parked down near the end of the beach. The Hearts Desires and us hopped in our dinks and headed on over.

The majority of the inhabitants of most of these islands are of African decent. So we were pretty shocked when we walked up to the edge of the gathering and most of the attendees were white. There are only 3 boats here so we had to find someone to ask where the hell they all came from. It turns out there’s a large population of Americans and Canadians that spend there winters here. Riddle solved, let’s eat.

There was fish, conch fritters, chicken and ribs along with the staple sides of the Bahamas, peas and rice with Mac & cheese. Rum drinks were fairly pricey but some beers were reasonable. Kalik, a good Bahamanian beer was $4 a bottle, but Miller which is imported here was 2 for $5, go figure. I haven’t seen Miller in ages, hello old friend, oh look, one for each hand.

We soon realized that most of the white folks got here early to eat and then in an hour or two they started to drift toward home. Conversely, the locals must eat dinner at home (same food why pay for it) and then start showing up for the Fish Fry’s real attraction, drinking and dancing.

The people watching was excellent. The music was great as well. It went all over the place, from reggae to Michael Jackson, there was even a reggae version of the electric slide. The racial harmony that we’ve seen throughout the islands peaked here. People all having a great time together regardless of ancestry. Its really refreshing, the Bahamanians seem to have gotten past the whole white / black thing.