February 20, 2008

We were up and underway for Long Island, no, not Long Guyland in New York but Long Island at the extreme southern end of the Exuma chain.

After we anchored in Sand Dollar Beach, Georgetown we discovered that we had dropped the hook very close to several abandoned tanks of some type. They were about 4 feet in diameter and almost as long as the boat. While we were snorkeling we saw several in a large heap and one other off by itself.

As luck would have when we hauled the anchor we got the chain snagged on a large plate of steel. The piece of steel was 4 feet by 6 feet and a little less than a quarter of an inch thick. It must have been part of one of the tanks and was neatly folded across our chain as it came to the surface. I was able to draw the plate right up to the bow and started to flex the metal back and forth at the bend in an effort to break it. Progress was evident right up until the moment when the plate metal slipped from my grasp. It then slid perfectly down the chain and lodged itself against our anchor. Shit.

So Christy motored slowly forward while I recovered the anchor. Once we were able to rip the anchor from the bottom, up it came, complete with the large plate of steel. While hanging over the bow pulpit I was able to work the metal back and forth until it broke and fell clear of the boat and back into the water. Whew!

Once underway we found ourselves as part of a mass exodus from Georgetown. We had planned to leave with 3 other boats but it soon became obvious that ours was a common plan as there were 22 other boats with similar ideas. After transiting the reefs that protect the southern end of the bay we turned dead into the wind for what would be a long day of motor sailing into very light winds.

We were on starboard tack with just the main up as we were too close to the wind to roll out the genoa. After about 15 miles we reached a waypoint that would allow us to turn 30 degrees more to port. It was just enough for us to roll out the genny and really start to make some time. We were able to pick off one boat after another until we were at the front of the pack.

We were able to land one small Albacore as we traveled. When we rounded our next to last waypoint we had to drop the genoa as we were now very close on the wind again. I used the opportunity to take the fish up to the bow and clean him. He was kind of small but as in the past, our catch had been hit by a Barracuda while we fought him and as a result his tail was broken. He wouldn’t have survived so he was destined for the fridge.

After cleaning the fish and my mess I gave him to Christy to store. Instead, in twenty minutes she brought up sautéed fish for lunch. It just doesn’t get any fresher and it was quite tasty. Although, I did have to wash him down with a baloney sandwich as like I said, he was kinda small.

The anchorage of choice was Thompson Bay. It’s about in the center of the island on the western shore. There’s great protection from the northwest through east to southeast.

During our trip one of the boats was taking names of those who might like to dine together that night. We ended up with 44 people planning on going to the Thompson Bay Inn for dinner. Their food has a great reputation and several of the boats who have been in the area insisted that “if you’re in the area you just have to go”. So we’re going.

On these islands, the settlements can literally be overrun by 44 people showing up anywhere together. Trifina was the woman to talk too so she was called to alert her of our plan to arrive at her place enmasse. She said she’d be ready and please arrive around 1800 hours. Then Jim on Freedom offered his services to entertain for a while before dinner so everyone started showing up by 1730 hours.

It was to be a family style buffet and when we arrived there were 5 large tables set up to accommodate us all. There was no room for anyone else, we completely filled the place. Jim sang during happy hour which by the way was way more reasonable than the prices in Georgetown. The place was packed with people drinking and talking and milling about. Once dinner was brought out everyone’s attention shifted to eating.

Talk about a spread, lobster, grouper, ribs and chicken were all heaped on your plate as you shuffled down the food line. Then throw in the sides of potato salad, rice & peas, cole slaw and the ever popular Bahamanian mac & cheese and you really had a meal fit for a king.

I was still a little hungry so I headed for the buffet again. By now all the meat was gone but that was fine as there were still plenty of the sides to go around. Two minutes after I sat back down at our table a guy walked up with a huge plate of Grouper and gave it to me. I say “no, no this is fine” and he says “a mans gotta have meat or its not a meal” He left us with a plate so full that we passed it down the table and all 8 people at our table had some. Fourteen dollars a head for all the best food you can eat, drinks priced reasonably, it was wonderful.

Today after spending the night in the quietest, calmest anchorage, we woke ready to explore our new surroundings. We dinghied in to the first large dock we found.

While we’re talking about the dock let me sidetrack for a moment. Back in the states a good portion of the time when you landed your dinghy people hand their hand out for a couple of bucks. They would let you rent the day at their dock or turn you down completely because “their insurance wouldn’t cover it”. Here in the Bahamas it’s been just the opposite “sure Mon, no problem”. Of course they have the hope that you’ll be spending a few dollars at their place of business. If you walk off and drop a few bucks somewhere else its no problem. Just wonderful people.

Back to exploring, we walked the island a bit and found our way to the grocery store. The place was the well stocked with more things than even the store in Georgetown. Next door was a well stocked hardware store/post office/ gift shop as well.

While we were in the marine store we asked about dinghy motors. She didn’t sell them but made a call to the next marine supply store about 20 miles away. We arranged to buy a more powerful engine when we get back to the island in about a week. The woman let us use her phone, didn’t make a cent off us and yet was genuinely happy we were there. Just wonderful people.

Later that evening we attended a bonfire on the beach with about 30 other people. It was good to talk to so many people that we’ve just met. We even met the crew of one boat who by chance just happened to be in Block Island on our night from hell. We just met them tonight and I’m not even sure how it came up but they had been there as well. They were way behind us and had their share of close calls but came away unscathed as well.